Custom Speciality Matting

What Vynagrip does before someone slips on a wet deck

Around a pool, in a locker room, or behind a wet bar, the floor is the part of the room you stop noticing — right up until a foot goes out from under someone. It's easy to assume a textured tile or a quick wipe-down has it covered. The trouble is that water has nowhere to go on a flat surface, so it sits in a thin film exactly where people walk barefoot or in wet shoes.

Vynagrip is built to break that film. Its open-grid surface lets water drain straight through to the floor below, so the top of the mat stays in contact with feet instead of with a puddle. The raised diamond tread gives shoes and bare skin something to bite into. That combination is what separates a real non-slip pool mat from one that only looks grippy while it's dry.

A slick pool deck or wet-area floor isn't a small problem. The National Floor Safety Institute points to wet, hard floors as one of the most common settings for slip-and-fall injuries, and a busy deck or beverage station sees a steady stream of wet feet all day. Matting that keeps traction underfoot while the water disappears below is doing safety work, not decoration.

Why an open-grid PVC build, and why this one

Vynagrip is made from flexible, non-porous PVC in a two-layer, open-grid construction. Non-porous matters more than it sounds. Because water and spills can't soak into the material, the mat doesn't hold moisture the way a fabric or foam surface would — so it won't turn into a home for bacteria or mildew in a damp pool area or shower room.

The two-layer grid is what makes the drainage work. Water passes through the open pattern on top and clears out underneath, so the walking surface stays usable even when the deck around it is soaked. On traction, the surface is rated R11 under DIN 51130 and scores 72–88 wet on the ASTM E303 pendulum test — strong numbers for a barefoot, wet-area mat.

It's also tougher than a pool mat strictly needs to be, which is the point: it holds up. The PVC resists most acids, alkalines, and oils, and it stays workable across a wide temperature range, from well below freezing up to 140°F. The two-layer build adds a little give underfoot too, so standing on it for a while is easier on your legs than standing on bare concrete.

Where it belongs — and what it isn't

Vynagrip earns its place anywhere water and foot traffic meet. Think pool decks and the walkway from the pool to the locker room, shower and changing areas, the floor behind a poolside bar or beverage station, and wet work zones in kitchens, food service, and refrigerated spaces. In each of these, the same job repeats: drain the water, keep the grip.

It helps to be clear about what this mat is not. It's a walk-on surface mat, not a flotation device, and it's not the liner-protector cloth that goes underneath an above-ground pool. If you're looking for a mat to put under a pool or a float for in the water, this isn't that product. Vynagrip works on top of the deck, under your feet — whether that deck is concrete, tile, or paver.

One honest note for outdoor use: the PVC itself resists sun degradation, but the red color isn't colorfast in constant direct sunlight, so a red mat in full sun will fade over time. For exposed outdoor decks, the darker colors are the safer pick. In shaded or indoor wet areas, color holds up fine.

Three Things to Check Before You Spec It

Vynagrip is straightforward to order, but three things decide whether you get the right setup the first time.

First, decide between rolls and modules. Rolls come in 33-foot lengths and standard widths, and they're easy to cut to fit on site — the right call for covering a long deck or an open wet-area floor. Modules arrive pre-cut with finished ramped edging on three sides, so they sit cleanly against a wall or workstation without a trip lip.

Second, match the format to your edges. An open run of matting in the middle of a floor is one thing; a mat people step onto from a dry surface is another. Where a clean transition matters — a doorway, the edge of a bar, the lip of a shower — ramped edging keeps the change in height gentle, so the mat itself doesn't become the thing someone trips on.

Third, plan for sun and heat. Outdoors, choose a darker color and keep the red for shaded or indoor spots. Also know that PVC can shrink slightly — up to about 2% — and heat speeds that up, so on a hot, exposed deck, leave a little room at fixed edges rather than butting the mat tight wall to wall.

Why Mats Inc.

We've been matching mats to real floors since 1964, and wet areas are where the wrong choice shows up fastest. We'll help you size Vynagrip to your actual deck or work zone, talk through rolls versus modules for your layout, and flag the details — edging, color, sun exposure — that catch people out after a mat ships. It's part of our wider lineup of pool and wet-area matting, and every order is backed by our 1-year limited warranty.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Vynagrip actually made of, and why does that matter near water?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

It's a flexible, non-porous PVC mat built in two layers, with an open-grid top and a diamond tread. The non-porous part is the key for wet areas — water and spills can't soak in, so the mat doesn't stay damp or trap the bacteria and mildew that build up on surfaces holding moisture. The open grid lets water drain straight through instead of pooling on top, which is what keeps the walking surface grippy when everything around it is wet.

How slip-resistant is it when the deck is soaking wet?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

Wet traction is exactly what it's built for. The surface is rated R11 on the DIN 51130 ramp test and scores 72–88 wet on the ASTM E303 pendulum test, both of which point to strong grip with water present. It also drains at the V10 level, so water keeps moving off the top rather than sitting under your feet. On top of that, the PVC shrugs off most acids, alkalines, and oils and works from below freezing up to 140°F, so a hot deck or a chemical splash won't break it down.

Does it come in rolls or tiles, and can I get a custom size?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

Both. You can order it as a roll in 33-foot lengths and 2-, 3-, or 4-foot widths, which you cut to fit on site — good for long decks and open floors. Or you can order modules at 4' x 2'5" or 5' x 3' that arrive with finished ramped edging on three sides, ready to drop against a wall or bar. If your space is an odd shape, custom sizes are available on request.

Can I use this outside around the pool, or is it really an indoor mat?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, VP of Marketing

It works in both, and the pool deck is one of its best homes. Outdoors it handles weather and a wide temperature swing without getting brittle, so it's at ease on an open deck, a poolside path, or a shower and changing area. The one thing to plan for outside is sun: pick a darker color for spots in constant direct sunlight, since the red can fade out there over time. Indoors and in shade, any color holds up.

What does it look like, and what colors can I get?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, VP of Marketing

It has a clean, open diamond-grid look that reads as purposeful rather than busy — like it belongs in a working wet area, not like an afterthought. It comes in black and red as standard. Black is the easy choice for hiding the bits of grit and debris a pool deck collects, while red can mark off a zone or add a little contrast. Just remember the red is best kept out of full, constant sun.

My deck has an awkward layout — will this actually fit it?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, VP of Marketing

Most likely, yes, and that's one of its strengths. Because the rolls cut easily on site, you can shape a run around steps, drains, ladders, and corners instead of forcing your space to match a fixed mat size. For built-in spots like a bar floor or a recessed changing area, the modules with ramped edges give you a finished look. And if nothing standard works, you can have it made to a custom size to fit the exact footprint you've got.

Written by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO, Mats Inc.

Waterhog Inlay Logo Mats put your logo into the proven Waterhog bi-level mat rather than on top of it. The inlay is the difference: the area that will carry the logo is cut out of the mat and the colors are hand-laid into the cut-out like a jigsaw, so the logo becomes part of the surface and wears with it. It's the most precise of our Waterhog branding options, which is why it leads our indoor logo mats for a sharp, lasting brand at the door.

Under the logo, it's a full Waterhog. The bi-level surface scrapes dirt and moisture off shoes and traps them below shoe level so they don't track inside, and the raised water-dam border holds moisture on the mat — up to about 1.5 gallons per square yard — keeping it off your floors. Most of the dirt inside a building arrives on foot traffic, per ISSA, and that bi-level scrape-and-trap design is built to handle the load.

It's made to keep its look. Reinforced rubber nubs hold the pile up so it resists crushing under traffic, and the solution-dyed fabric resists fading, so both the mat and the inlaid logo stay sharp longer. It runs on a 68-mil SBR rubber backing in smooth or universal-cleated, with beveled edges for a safe floor-to-mat transition, and it's certified high-traction by the NFSI. The rubber backing also carries 20% post-consumer recycled content from car tires.

It's built for branding at commercial entrances — hotels, retail, restaurants, offices, schools and universities, and commercial buildings — and it's rated for indoor and outdoor use. There are 19 colors to work from, with a choice of a classic rubber border or a fashion fabric border, and it's made to order in sizes up to 6' x 20'. Because the nubs and solution-dyeing slow both crushing and fading, it holds appearance for years; replace it when the inlaid logo finally dulls or the surface packs down in the main traffic path.

Frequently Asked Questions

How is the logo made, and will it wear off?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

It's an inlay, not a print. The logo area is cut out of the mat and the colored sections are hand-laid into the cut-out like a jigsaw, so the logo is built into the surface rather than coated on top — there's no print layer to scuff away. The fabric is solution-dyed, which means color runs through the fiber and resists fading. Between the inlay construction and the solution-dyeing, the logo holds up about as well as the mat itself does, which is the point of choosing this one for branding.

What colors and border options are available?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

There are 19 colors to build the logo and field from, plus a choice of border: a classic rubber border for a clean, utilitarian edge, or a fashion fabric border when you want the surround to feel more finished. Because the inlay is hand-laid in distinct color sections, it suits bold, well-defined logos and lettering — text at least 3 inches tall, lines at least 3/8 inch — rather than fine gradients or tiny detail. Send us your artwork and brand colors and we'll lay out how it translates into the inlay and confirm the color match before production.

How well does it handle dirt and water?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

This is where the Waterhog construction earns its name. The bi-level surface scrapes dirt and moisture off shoes and drops it below shoe level, so it's held in the mat instead of tracking across your floors, and the raised water-dam border keeps moisture on the mat — up to roughly 1.5 gallons of water per square yard. That makes it a strong performer at a busy or wet entrance, not just a branded mat. Lifting it periodically so the floor underneath dries keeps it working at its best.

Can it go outside, and is it slip-safe?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

Yes on both. It's rated for indoor and outdoor commercial entrances, and the solution-dyed fabric resists fading outdoors. On safety, it has beveled edges that give a safe transition from floor to mat instead of a trip lip, and it's certified high-traction by the NFSI, so it holds grip as people come through. The 68-mil SBR rubber backing — smooth or universal-cleated — keeps it planted; choose cleated for hard floors where you want extra grip underneath.

By Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing, Mats Inc.

• When properly sized and installed under machines, these solid neoprene pads prolong machine life, reduce maintenance costs, dampen vibration, and isolate noise telegraphed through the floor.
• Pads are engineered for a maximum load capacity of 50 psi.
• Each pad is 3/8" x 18" x 18"
• Can be cut to fit your application.

What a non-slip stair tread does before a worn step becomes an incident

Stairs do not fail all at once. The nose rounds off, the walking surface polishes smooth under thousands of footfalls, and a step that once had grip turns into a slick edge people trust without looking. Non slip stair treads cover that surface with a hard abrasive face, putting traction back exactly where a foot lands and body weight shifts forward.

These are stair tread covers, not replacement steps. The tread fastens down over the step already in place. The abrasive face does the gripping, and the aluminum body underneath carries traffic and shields the nose from further wear. Nothing structural comes out, and the stairway stays in service through the work.

The descent is where the risk concentrates. A person going down a flight commits weight to the front third of each step, and that is the first area to wear smooth and the last area anyone inspects. A tread with a formed nose puts the grip surface over the edge itself rather than stopping short of it.

Traction is a measurable property, not an impression. The National Floor Safety Institute maintains ANSI/NFSI B101.1, the standard method for measuring wet traction on walking surfaces, which is the framework facility teams use when they audit a stairway rather than guess at it.

Why extruded aluminum with abrasive filler, and why this profile

The base is 6063-T5 extruded aluminum, heat treated and corrosion resistant. Extrusion matters here because it produces a consistent cross section along the full length of the tread, so the nose geometry and the filler channels are identical from one end of an 8-foot run to the other. There are no welds and no fasteners fighting a rolled or stamped shape.

The anti-slip surface is not a coating sitting on top of the metal. It is a filler packed into channels in the extrusion, and the specification calls for no less than 65% virgin grain aluminum oxide and silicon carbide abrasive. That is a mineral hardness argument: the grit outlasts the shoe leather and grit tracked across it rather than polishing under it.

Color runs uniformly through the filler instead of sitting on the surface as paint. Practically, that means the center of the stair, where every person walks, does not turn into a faded stripe against untouched edges after a season of traffic. Eleven standard colors are available, and black is supplied when no color is specified on the order.

The profile is what separates this tread from a flat plate. It measures 11 inches deep and 9/32 of an inch thick, with a 1-1/8 inch nose on the underside and a beveled back edge. The nose wraps the leading edge of the existing step. The beveled back lets the tread sit down against the step without creating a lip that catches a toe on the way up.

The assembly is noncombustible, tested under Federal Test Method Standard No. 501a, Method 6411 — a specification line that matters in stairwells serving as means of egress, where combustibility of applied finishes gets asked about during review.

Where it belongs, and where it is not the answer

This tread is built for renovation. It goes over stairs that already exist and have worn out, polished up, or were never slip resistant to begin with: concrete stairs in a parking structure, terrazzo in a school building, steel pan stairs in a plant, tile landings in a lobby, wood stairs in an older building.

It works interior and exterior. Outdoors, the corrosion-resistant aluminum handles weather and the abrasive face keeps working when the surface is wet — which is why it reads as a strong fit among exterior stair treads on loading docks, entry steps, and stairs exposed to freeze-thaw cycling. A special tread sealer is available for wood substrates and saltwater exposure.

Where it is not the answer: this is not a decorative finish tread and it is not carpet. It is also not the right call on a step whose structure is failing. If the concrete is spalling or a wood stringer is soft, the tread will fasten to a substrate that cannot hold an anchor, and the repair belongs before the tread, not under it.

It is also not a landing solution on its own. An 11-inch depth covers a stair tread, not a landing surface, so landings usually need a tile or a wider covering handled separately. The tread's job is the step; think of it as one component of the stairway package rather than the whole of it.

Three Things to Check Before You Spec It

First, confirm exposure and traffic. Interior and exterior are both in scope, but exterior stairs and stairs seeing constant traffic are where the abrasive content earns its keep. If the stair is exposed to saltwater or is being installed over wood, ask about the tread sealer at the time of order rather than after installation, because it is applied as part of the job.

Second, measure the step, not the stairway. You need the depth of the existing tread and the run length of each step, because lengths are made to order. Maximum length is 8 feet in a single section, and anything longer is supplied in equal sections. Decide up front whether treads run the full width less 1/8 inch of clearance, or terminate 4 inches short of each end — the short termination leaves a channel that is easier to clean out.

Third, settle the substrate and the anchor. Anchor type has to be specified on the order: Tapcons, wood screws, machine screws, or screws with expansion shields, depending on whether you are fastening into concrete, wood, or steel. Dished or worn steps need leveling compound troweled to a feather edge first, and smooth surfaces such as marble, terrazzo, or tile have to be roughed up so adhesive grabs. Drilled and countersunk holes come standard.

Why Mats Inc.

Stair treads get ordered wrong more often than almost anything else we sell, because the person measuring is rarely the person specifying the anchor. We take the step dimensions, the substrate, and the exposure together, and we confirm the length breakdown before anything gets cut, so a stairwell does not end up with a run of treads that are 3 inches short at the top landing. Sixty years of shipping into commercial and industrial jobs is most of what that judgment is built on.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are these stair treads actually made of?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO, Mats Inc.

The body is 6063-T5 extruded aluminum, heat treated and corrosion resistant. The gripping surface is a separate abrasive filler packed into channels formed into that extrusion, specified at no less than 65% virgin grain aluminum oxide and silicon carbide. Those two minerals sit near the top of the hardness scale, which is the whole point — grit tracked in on boots does not polish them down.

The distinction that matters is filler versus coating. A painted or sprayed anti-slip surface wears through and exposes bare substrate. Here the abrasive is a body of material with real depth to it, held in a metal channel. When people ask why the tread is 9/32 of an inch thick rather than a thin plate, that thickness is what makes room for the abrasive to have somewhere to go.

How well do they hold up under constant foot traffic?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO, Mats Inc.

Durability here comes from three specific things rather than a general claim. The abrasive content is a minimum of 65% virgin grain aluminum oxide and silicon carbide. The base is heat-treated 6063-T5 aluminum, so it does not deform under point loads the way a soft metal would. And the color is carried through the filler, so wear does not show up first as a bleached path down the middle of the stairway.

The failure mode we see on these is almost never the tread surface. It is the fastening. A tread installed with adhesive and mechanical anchors into a properly leveled step stays put. A tread set on a dished step without leveling compound rocks under traffic, works the anchors loose, and gets blamed on the product. Our warranty is 1-year limited.

Can these go on outdoor concrete steps, or are they indoor only?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO, Mats Inc.

They are specified for both interior and exterior stair renovation, and outdoor concrete is one of the most common applications we ship into. The aluminum is corrosion resistant, the abrasive face keeps working wet, and there is nothing in the assembly that absorbs water and freezes. Parking garage stairs, dock steps, and exterior entry stairs are all in scope.

Two things to raise before you order for an outdoor job. If the stair is near saltwater, ask for the tread sealer — it is applied at installation, not after. And if the concrete is spalling or the nose has broken away, that gets patched and leveled first. The tread needs a sound step to anchor into; it restores the walking surface, it does not rebuild the step.

How do I measure my stairs and order the right lengths?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing, Mats Inc.

Two measurements per stairway: the depth of the existing tread front to back, and the width of the step from stringer to stringer. Depth tells us whether the 11-inch profile fits your step. Width sets the cut length, and lengths are made to order rather than pulled from stock sizes, so you are not forced into a standard that leaves a gap.

Maximum length is 8 feet in one continuous section. Anything wider than that comes in equal sections rather than one long piece and one stub, which looks deliberate instead of patched. You will also want to decide whether treads run the full width of the step less 1/8 inch of clearance, or stop 4 inches short of each end. The short termination is the easier one to keep clean in a stairwell that gets mopped.

Will the color fade or wear off where people walk?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing, Mats Inc.

No, and that is a deliberate design choice rather than a coating quality. The color extends uniformly through the abrasive filler, so as the surface wears the exposed material is the same color as what was there originally. A stairway does not end up with a pale traffic lane down the middle and saturated color at the untouched edges, which is exactly how a painted or coated stair ages.

There are eleven standard colors, and if no color is specified on the order, black is what ships. For property managers matching an existing palette across a building, that range is usually enough to land close on a stairwell without a custom run.

Can I get a contrasting nose so the step edge stands out?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing, Mats Inc.

Yes. A two-tone tread with a contrasting color on the first two ribs is available, and it is worth asking about on almost any public stairway. A high-contrast leading edge makes the boundary between one step and the next legible to someone descending quickly, in low light, or with reduced vision. Safety yellow against a dark body is the combination most people picture, but the contrast can be built from any of the standard colors.

It also gives you a design lever in a lobby or an entry stair where a stripe of tape would look like a temporary fix. Because the contrast comes from filler color rather than an applied marking, it wears at the same rate as the rest of the tread and does not peel at the nose. Specify the two-tone at the time of order — it is not something added after the treads are made.

Written by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO, Mats Inc.

What Floorline does before a wet floor sends someone down

Around a pool, behind a bar, or across a changing-room floor, the wet patch you don't notice is the one that trips someone. It's easy to assume textured tile or a quick mop has it covered. But water spreads into a thin film on a flat surface, right where feet land, and a surface that grips dry can turn slick the instant it's wet — in shoes or bare feet.

Floorline is built to clear that film. Its open-grid, embossed surface lets water and spills drain straight through to the floor below, so the part you stand on stays above the puddle. The etched top gives shoes and bare skin a firm grip. That combination is what makes it a true non-slip wet-area mat rather than one that only behaves when it's dry.

A slick leisure or wet floor isn't a small problem. Hygiene and floor-care authorities like ISSA point to wet, soiled floors as a leading source of both slip injuries and sanitation issues, and a pool deck, bar, or changing room keeps those floors wet all day. A mat that drains the water away, grips underfoot, and rinses clean is doing real safety and hygiene work.

Why a thin, single-tier PVC build, and why this one

Floorline is made from a single tier of flexible, non-porous PVC in an open-grid form. That single-tier build is the heart of what sets it apart: at 1/4 inch thick and about 0.76 pounds per square foot, it's the lightest, thinnest mat of its kind we carry — genuinely easy to carry, move, and lift for cleaning, and soft enough underfoot that standing on it all shift is easy on the legs.

Thin doesn't mean it gives up grip. It carries the highest slip and drainage certifications of its family — R11 and V10 under DIN 51130, Classification C on the DIN 51097 barefoot ramp test, and a 1.0 dry / 0.8 wet reading on ASTM F1677. So it's rated for both shoes and bare feet, with water clearing through the grid the whole time. It's also built with anti-microbial and anti-fungal properties that protect bare feet against the fungus changing rooms tend to grow.

It holds up in tough, wet conditions too. The non-porous PVC resists most acids, alkalines, and oils, stands up to UV, and works from below freezing to 140°F, so an outdoor deck and an indoor shower are both fair game. It carries a EN13501-1 Cfl-s1 fire classification, absorbs sound, and is 100% recyclable with no SVHC substances.

Where it belongs — and what it isn't

Floorline earns its place anywhere water and feet meet. That's the pool deck and poolside walkway, shower floors, changing and locker rooms, and recreation centers — and just as much the wet floors of hospitality, like bar flooring, commercial kitchens, and the areas behind a counter where spills and breakages are constant. Because it's certified for shoes and bare feet alike, one mat covers a lot of ground.

It helps to be clear about what this mat is not. It's a walk-on surface mat, not a flotation device, and not the liner sheet that goes under an above-ground pool. If you're after a mat to put under a pool or a float for the water, this isn't that product. Floorline works on top of the floor, under your feet — on concrete, tile, decking, or a finished pool surround.

One honest note for outdoor use: the PVC resists sun, but the red color isn't colorfast in constant direct sunlight, so a red mat in full sun will fade over time. For exposed outdoor decks the darker color is the safer pick; in shaded or indoor spaces, either holds up fine.

Three Things to Check Before You Spec It

Floorline is easy to order well once you've settled three things.

First, match it to the duty. This is the light, thin, soft end of wet-area matting — ideal where comfort underfoot, easy handling, and reliable grip matter, like a bar floor, a changing room, or a poolside walkway. For the most punishing, heavy-rolling-load floors, a thicker, heavier mat may suit better. Be honest about how hard the floor gets worked before you choose.

Second, measure the whole wet path. The walk from the pool to the showers, the full length behind a bar, the changing-room floor — size the mat to cover wherever feet are actually wet, because a dry-foot gap is exactly where the next slip happens. It comes in 2- and 3-foot-wide rolls and cuts to fit on site, so odd shapes and obstacles aren't a problem.

Third, plan for sun and heat outdoors. Choose the darker color for spots in constant direct sun. And like any thermoplastic, the PVC can shrink slightly — up to about 2%, faster in heat — so on a hot, exposed deck, leave a little room at fixed edges rather than butting it tight wall to wall.

Why Mats Inc.

We've been matching mats to real floors since 1964, and wet leisure and hospitality floors are where the wrong choice shows up fastest — in slips, in sore feet, and in mats too awkward to lift and clean. We'll help you size Floorline to your actual wet path, choose between widths, and pick the right color for sun or shade. It's part of our wider lineup of pool and wet-area matting, and every order is backed by our 1-year limited warranty.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's Floorline made of, and how does it grip and drain?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

It's made from a single tier of non-porous, flexible PVC in an open-grid form with an embossed top. Two things make it work on a wet floor. First, the open grid lets water and spills drain straight through to the floor below, so you're standing on the mat instead of on a film of water. Second, the embossed surface gives shoes and bare feet edges to grip. The PVC is non-porous so it won't soak up moisture, and it's built with anti-microbial and anti-fungal properties to resist the fungus and bacteria wet floors breed.

How slip-resistant is it, for shoes and bare feet?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

It's rated for both, which is part of what makes it versatile. It carries R11 and V10 drainage under DIN 51130 for shod traffic, Classification C on the DIN 51097 barefoot ramp test, and a 1.0 dry / 0.8 wet reading on ASTM F1677 — among the strongest figures in its family. Grip comes from an etched surface, so traction is best across the lines of the pattern. In practice that means the same mat works under a lifeguard's shoes and a swimmer's bare feet without compromise.

What sizes does it come in, and can I cover a large area?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

It comes in 33-foot rolls in 2- and 3-foot widths, and you cut it to fit on site — no special tools or prep visit needed. For a longer run, like a poolside walkway or the length behind a bar, you simply lay and trim to the distance you need. Because it contours to uneven surfaces, it follows a real floor rather than needing a perfectly flat one. For widths beyond the standard rolls, ask us and we'll work out the best layout.

Where does Floorline work best?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, VP of Marketing

Anywhere water and feet meet, indoors or out. It's a natural around pool decks and poolside walkways, in showers, changing and locker rooms, and recreation centers. It's also a favorite in hospitality — bar floors, the area behind a counter, and commercial kitchens — where spills and the odd breakage are constant and staff are on their feet for hours. Because it's certified for both shoes and bare feet, one mat handles a lot of different spaces.

What does it look like, and what colors can I get?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, VP of Marketing

It has a clean, low-profile grid look that reads as tidy and purposeful rather than bulky — being thin, it sits close to the floor and doesn't dominate a space. It comes in black and red. Black is the easy, neutral choice that hides grit and debris around a pool or behind a bar, while red can mark off a zone or add a little warmth. Just keep the red out of constant direct sun, where it can fade over time.

My space is an odd shape and I'll be moving the mat to clean — is that easy?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, VP of Marketing

Both are easy, and they're where this mat shines. Because it cuts to fit on site and contours to uneven surfaces, you can shape a run around drains, corners, and fixtures instead of forcing the space to match a fixed mat. And being the lightest, thinnest mat of its kind, it's simple to roll or lift by hand for cleaning — rinse it, let the floor underneath dry, and lay it back down. Send us your layout and we'll help you plan it.

Written by Jinna Hopson, VP of Marketing, Mats Inc.

What Tire Link Mats Do Before Heavy Traffic Grinds a Walkway Down

Tire link mats are the brute-force answer to the hardest-working floors: recycled tire rubber links woven on galvanized steel wire into an open mesh that water and debris fall straight through. The walking surface stays clear while the mess collects below shoe level — and the links themselves are built to take the heaviest traffic for years.

High-traffic wet zones defeat ordinary matting quickly. Grit grinds surfaces down, water sits where boots land, and the mat that looked sturdy in month one is curling and bald by winter's end. This is a different class of tool — rubber that already survived life as a tire, doing a second tour on your busiest walkway.

Why Recycled Tire Links on Steel Wire, and Why This One

The construction is nearly a century old for a reason: the design was first patented in 1923, and it endures because nothing about it is delicate. Links cut from bias-ply tire rubber are woven on galvanized steel wires, producing a 5/8-inch-thick mat with no coating to wear off and no foam to crush flat.

The open mesh is the working feature. Rain, slush, mud, and grit pass through the weave instead of pooling on top, so traction lives on a clear surface even in weather that soaks everything else. When it's time to clean, the mat simply rolls up — sweep or hose what gathered beneath, roll it back out, done.

There's also a genuine sustainability story built in: the mat consists of approximately 90 percent recycled content, and every 12 square feet puts one whole recycled tire back to work. Two weave patterns are available — herringbone and straight — and edges can be finished with beveled or squared nosing.

Where It Belongs, and What It Is Not

Tire link mats belong where traffic is relentless and conditions are wet: building entrances and service doors, outdoor walkways and steps, dock and yard transitions, and the muddy, slushy approaches that see boots by the hundreds. The harder the duty, the more this construction makes sense.

What it is not: a cushioned standing mat. Its job is surviving traffic and shedding water, not easing a fixed shift at a workstation — that comfort work belongs to the options in our anti-fatigue mats and runners lineup. Give the tire links the doorway and the walkway, and let a purpose-built cushion handle the standing post.

Three Things to Check Before You Spec It

First, pick the weave for the setting. The herringbone pattern lays the links in an angled, woven look that reads a touch more finished; the straight weave keeps rows aligned for a plainer, utilitarian face. Both share identical construction and thickness — the choice is visual and traffic will never know the difference.

Second, plan sizes and edges together. Standard mats run from compact doorway sizes up to 3 feet by 12 feet, with custom sizing available. Dimensions are approximate unless nosing is specified, so order beveled or squared nosing where exact fit or a finished transition edge matters. Runs over 12 feet should be sectionalized for easier handling, and oversized mats carry special handling.

Third, build the simple cleaning habit. Everything the mesh swallows is waiting underneath, so the routine is: roll the mat up, clear what collected, roll it back. It's a two-minute job that keeps the drainage path open — and it's the only maintenance this construction really asks for.

Why Mats Inc.

Some products earn their place with technology; this one earned it with a hundred years of doorways. We've been sending tire link matting into the wettest, busiest entries our customers own since 1964, because it simply refuses to quit there. We verify what's behind every product we carry, and this mat is backed by a 1-year limited Mats Inc. warranty.

Frequently Asked Questions

What makes tire links tougher than a regular rubber mat?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

The rubber's first job was being a tire. Links cut from bias-ply tire rubber carry the toughness that material was engineered for — abrasion, weather, load — and the galvanized steel wire weave holds them together without glue, stitching, or a backing that can delaminate. The design was patented back in 1923 and has outlived generations of newer matting for a simple reason: there's no weak layer to fail first.

How long does it really last under constant traffic?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

This construction is rated to withstand the heaviest traffic for several years — and that's the punishing kind of duty, not office hallways. Thick rubber links wear the way a tire tread does, gradually and evenly, rather than the way coated mats fail, all at once when the surface gives. On a doorway that eats ordinary mats every season, the arithmetic of a mat measured in years changes the whole maintenance picture.

How does the open weave keep the surface safer when it's wet?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

Water can't make a surface slick if it isn't on the surface. The mesh openings let rain, slush, and grit drop through immediately, so boots meet rubber links instead of a film of water sitting on top of a solid mat. Debris works the same way — tracked-in gravel and mud fall below shoe level rather than rolling underfoot. The surface is non-directional too, so there's no wrong way to lay it for traction.

Will it look right at our entrance, or too industrial?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

It wears its toughness openly, and in the right setting that's exactly the message. At a plant door, a service entrance, a campus building that sees weather, or a farm and yard transition, the woven rubber reads as purposeful — especially in the herringbone pattern, which gives the surface an orderly, almost textile look. For a polished lobby where softness and color set the tone, pair it outside the door and let interior matting take over past the threshold.

How do I get the size and edges right?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

Start with the traffic path, then decide the edges. Standard sizes run from compact doorway mats up to 3 by 12 feet, with custom sizing available for wider or longer runs. Two details matter at order time: dimensions are approximate unless you specify nosing, so choose beveled or squared nosing where the fit is exact or the edge meets open floor — and plan runs over 12 feet as sections, which makes lifting and cleaning a one-person job instead of a project.

What does the recycled content actually amount to?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

Something you can count. The mat is roughly 90 percent recycled content, and every 12 square feet contains one full recycled tire — so a 3 by 8 foot doorway mat is two tires that stayed out of a landfill and went back to work. For organizations tracking sustainability commitments, it's a rare line item where the greener choice is also the most durable one on the list, and the math is simple enough to put in the report.

By Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO, Mats Inc.

Perfect for groundskeepers and volunteers, this mat enhances playability and improves safety.

• Durable Construction: Made with high-quality materials to withstand regular use and harsh weather conditions.
• Efficient Leveling: Provides a smooth, even surface by effectively leveling and smoothing dirt, clay, and other surfaces on the baseball field.
• Easy to Use: Lightweight design allows for quick and easy setup, use, and transport by groundskeepers and volunteers.
• Enhanced Playability: Improves field conditions, ensuring a safer and more consistent playing surface for athletes.
• Versatile Application: Suitable for use on baseball fields, softball fields, and other sports surfaces requiring maintenance.
• Low Maintenance: Requires minimal upkeep, making it a cost-effective solution for maintaining high-quality field conditions.
• Flexible Design: The mat's flexible design allows it to contour to the field's surface, ensuring comprehensive coverage and effective grooming.
• Attachment Options: Can be easily attached to a tractor or ATV for more efficient field maintenance over larger areas.
• Made from galvanized steel 1/2" deep with 1" x 1" mesh openings.
• Custom sizes available upon request. Call or Email us!

Diamond design rubber stair treads put a raised diamond field across the walking surface of a step and wrap a molded nose over the leading edge. They come in two nose profiles: a square nose for steps with a squared-off edge, and a round nose shaped to a 3/4 inch radius for bullnose steps.

Picking the wrong one is the most common way this goes badly. The two configurations differ in depth, gauge, length range and whether the nose adjusts at all, so the decision has to happen before the order rather than on the stairs.

What a Rubber Stair Tread Does Before a Worn Nose Becomes the Thing People Trip On

Stairs fail at the front edge first. Every foot going up lands on the nose, and every foot coming down pushes off it. Concrete crumbles there, terrazzo polishes smooth, wood splinters and rounds over, and the edge that people rely on to judge where the step ends stops being a crisp line.

That matters more than the wear looks like it should. On a descending flight, people read the nosing rather than the tread, often at speed and often without looking directly at it. A rounded, chipped or shiny edge gives them worse information about where to put their foot.

The usual response is patching, and patching the nose of a stair rarely holds. A skim of repair mortar on a high-traffic edge takes the same abuse that destroyed the original and starts breaking up again within a season, this time with a joint underneath it to fail along.

A rubber tread cover takes that abuse instead of the step. The molded nose absorbs impact and rebuilds the visual edge, the diamond field gives the walking surface texture, and the whole assembly is replaceable when it wears rather than requiring the stair itself to be repaired. The full range of stair treads, risers and landing tiles is organised around that difference.

Why Two Nose Profiles, and Which One Your Stairs Take

The square nose version is the flexible one. It runs 12-1/16 inches deep from inside the nose at 3/16 inch thick, tapering to 1/8 inch at the back edge, with a 1-9/16 inch nose at 1/8 inch thick. Both tapered and adjustable, so it accommodates the variation you find in existing steps.

That adjustability is why it handles retrofit work well. Steps that have been walked on for thirty years are not uniform, and a nose with some give in it sits tight against edges that a rigid profile would bridge. It also comes in lengths from 36 inches to 108 inches, which covers wide institutional stairs without a joint.

The round nose version is a different part with a different job. It is shaped to a 3/4 inch radius to wrap a bullnose step, running 12-5/16 inches deep at 1/4 inch thick tapering to 3/16 inch, with a shorter 1-3/8 inch nose at 7/64 inch. It is heavier gauge across the whole tread.

The trade-off is that the round nose is neither tapered nor adjustable. The radius is fixed, so the step it goes on has to actually match it. Lengths also top out at 72 inches rather than 108, which rules it out for the widest stairs.

Read that as a decision rather than a preference. If the steps are squared off, the square nose is the answer and the adjustability is a bonus. If they are bullnosed, measure the radius before ordering, because a fixed 3/4 inch profile on a step with a different curve leaves either a gap under the nose or an edge standing proud of it.

Both configurations weigh 2.25 pounds per linear foot and carry the same raised diamond field. The pattern is a continuous field rather than a directional rib, so it presents the same texture whichever way a foot crosses it and does not create an edge running along the direction of travel.

Where It Belongs, and Where It Is Not the Right Tread

Specify it on interior stairs carrying steady traffic where the existing steps are structurally sound but worn at the edges: schools, offices, hospitals, apartment blocks, municipal buildings and back-of-house stairs. It works over concrete, terrazzo, wood and metal pan stairs, provided the surface underneath is solid and flat.

It is a strong retrofit choice specifically because it covers rather than replaces. A stair with chipped nosings and a scuffed walking surface can be brought back to a uniform finished condition without touching the structure, and each tread is independently replaceable afterward.

Where it is not the right answer is a stair that has lost its geometry. If noses are broken back an inch, if the tread surface has deep spalling, or if steps vary noticeably in depth from one to the next, a cover follows those problems rather than fixing them. Repair the substrate first or the finished stair shows every flaw.

It also is not a riser product. This covers the horizontal step and the leading edge only, so a stairwell that needs the vertical faces finished as well takes a separate riser or a one-piece tread and riser assembly instead.

Three Things to Check Before You Spec It

First, identify the nose profile on the actual stairs, not from the original drawings. Squared-off steps take the square nose. Bullnosed steps need the radius measured against the 3/4 inch round nose profile before anything is ordered. Buildings that have been renovated in stages sometimes have both in the same stairwell.

Second, measure the widest step and check it against the length range. The square nose configuration goes to 108 inches, the round nose to 72. Anything wider than the available length means a butt joint mid-step, which is a seam in exactly the spot you least want one.

Third, confirm depth against the actual tread. The square nose covers 12-1/16 inches from inside the nose, the round nose 12-5/16 inches. Stairs shallower than that need the tread trimmed at the back; stairs deeper than that leave an exposed strip behind the covering that has to be dealt with deliberately.

Why Mats Inc.

Most stair tread orders that go wrong go wrong on geometry, not on product choice. Somebody measures one step, assumes the rest match, and finds out at installation that the nose profile changes halfway up the flight. We have been supplying commercial stair coverings since 1964, and the useful half hour is the one spent measuring before anything is ordered.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I tell which nose profile my stairs need?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

Look at the leading edge of a step from the side. If it comes to a squared corner, you want the square nose version. If it curves over, you want the round nose, and you need to check that the curve is close to a 3/4 inch radius rather than assuming it.

Check several steps, not one. Buildings renovated in phases often have different stair construction on different flights, and a landing rebuilt at some point may not match the flight above it. It is also worth checking the top and bottom steps specifically, because those get modified more often than the ones in between.

What happens if the nose profile is close but not exact?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

It depends which version you are fitting. The square nose is tapered and adjustable, so it absorbs a reasonable amount of variation and still sits tight against the edge. That tolerance is the practical reason it is the safer specification when the stairs are old and nobody is certain what they will find.

The round nose has no adjustment in it. The 3/4 inch radius is molded and fixed, so a step with a tighter or looser curve leaves a void under the nose or an edge standing proud. A void under a nose is the worst outcome, since it flexes underfoot, works the adhesive loose, and eventually becomes the loose edge somebody catches a toe on.

What does the step underneath need to look like, and how does it install?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

Sound, flat, clean and dry. Strip any previous covering and get the old adhesive off completely, because a ridge of dried mastic telegraphs straight through a 3/16 inch tread. Fill spalled areas and chipped nosings, and let patching material cure fully before anything goes over it.

Treads are cut to length on site and bedded in full-spread adhesive, worked from the nose backward so air escapes rather than getting trapped at the front edge. Let the cartons acclimate to room temperature first, and keep the flight closed until the adhesive has set. Most crews do a stairwell in halves so the building keeps a usable route.

What do the colors look like, and which suit a busy stairwell?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

Twenty-six in total, and they pair up: thirteen solids with a marbleized version of each. The range covers the expected neutrals in black, charcoal, light and medium gray, plus warmer options in chocolate, brown, sand and cream, and stronger tones including wine, red, green and two blues.

For a working stairwell, the marbleized version of whatever color you like is almost always the better call. The swirl breaks up the surface so scuffs, tracked grit and the sheen that develops in the main walking path disappear into the pattern. A flat solid on a busy flight shows every mark until the next deep clean.

Can the treads contrast with the rest of the stairwell?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

They can, and a deliberate contrast is often the better design decision. Running darker treads against a lighter landing, or the reverse, makes the change in level obvious to anyone glancing down a flight, which is worth real consideration in a stairwell that is not brightly lit.

A matching landing tile in the same diamond pattern is available if you would rather the surface read as continuous from the bottom step onto the floor. Either approach works. What tends to look unresolved is the near-match, where the landing almost agrees with the treads but sits slightly off, which reads as a mistake rather than a choice.

How many do I order, and what ships in a carton?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

Count the steps, measure the widest one, and order to that length so everything can be trimmed down on site. Square nose treads ship six to a carton up to 72 inches and four to a carton above six feet. Round nose treads ship six to a carton. Both run 2.25 pounds per linear foot.

Add a spare piece to the order. Color runs vary between production batches, so a replacement tread bought a year later may sit visibly against its neighbors, and a single damaged step over a stairwell's life is routine rather than unusual. One extra piece turns that into a straight swap.

By Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO, Mats Inc.

These are diamond design rubber stair treads with a safety insert running along the leading edge. The insert is molded into the tread rather than applied to a finished surface, and it comes two ways: as abrasive grit strips, or as a ribbed or smooth rubber strip in a contrasting color.

Both treat the part of the step that carries descending weight, and both are permanent parts of the tread rather than something applied afterward. Which one a building needs comes down to whether the concern is traction underfoot, visibility of the step edge, or both at once.

What an Inlaid Safety Insert Does Before a Stairwell Starts Generating Incident Reports

A plain rubber tread relies on its molded pattern for texture. That works while the surface is dry and clean. Add rain tracked in from a lobby, a spilled drink, or the film of dust that builds on any stair between cleanings, and a molded pattern gives up a lot of what it had.

The nose is where that matters. Descending traffic loads the front two or three inches of every step, often at speed, and a foot that slides there has nowhere to recover to. That is the geometry behind most stairwell falls, and it is why a defined leading-edge treatment is worth more than uniform texture across the whole tread.

Stick-on grit tape is the usual improvised answer and a poor one. The adhesive edge lifts, cleaning equipment catches it, and within a year the strips are curling, half-missing and doing a worse job than nothing while making the whole stairwell look neglected into the bargain.

An inlaid insert is part of the tread instead. No separate adhesive layer to fail, no raised edge for a mop to catch, no maintenance task attached. It wears at roughly the rate the tread wears, so the safety surface lasts as long as the covering does. The full range of stair treads, risers and landing tiles includes both treated and untreated versions of most patterns.

Why an Inlaid Insert, and Which Configuration Your Building Needs

Start with the tread underneath, because it is the same one either way. The raised diamond field covers 8-1/4 inches of the walking surface with a 3 inch smooth back, so the pattern sits where feet land rather than running to the rear edge where it would only complicate cleaning.

The round nose version is the heavier gauge of the two: 1/4 inch tapering to 3/16 inch, 12-5/16 inches deep, with a 1-3/8 inch nose shaped to a 3/4 inch radius. It is neither tapered nor adjustable, and it runs in seven lengths from 36 to 72 inches. The square nose version is 3/16 inch tapering to 1/8 inch, 12-1/16 inches deep, with a tapered and adjustable 1-9/16 inch nose and lengths to 108 inches.

Now the insert. Abrasive grit is the choice where traction is the whole point, and it comes in eight colors: safety yellow, black, pebble white, ocean gray, teak brown, beige, galley red, and a glow strip. Ribbed or smooth rubber inserts are the alternative, available in safety yellow, almond, black, dark gray and brown.

The difference is what each one is really for. Grit gives a genuinely different surface texture under a shoe. A rubber insert gives a colour break and a change in surface without the abrasive bite, which suits a building that wants the step edge marked clearly but does not want a rough band underfoot.

Colour choice does more work here than people expect. Safety yellow against a charcoal or black tread is the strongest contrast available and reads from the top of a flight. Beige or ocean gray against a similar tread nearly disappears, which is right where the insert is there for footing rather than for marking. The glow strip is worth knowing about for stairwells that go dark during a power interruption.

On the round nose version, tested performance is documented. The static coefficient of friction measures 0.50 or better under ASTM D2047, and the tread classifies as Type TS, Class 2, Group 1 and 2, Grade 1 under ASTM F2169. It carries a Class 1 critical radiant flux rating at 0.45 W/cm² or better.

Where It Belongs, and Where It Is Not the Right Tread

Specify it on interior stairs in commercial, industrial and institutional buildings where slip resistance is an active concern rather than an afterthought: schools, hospitals, transit buildings, factories, municipal stairwells, and any flight people regularly descend while carrying something that blocks their view of the steps.

It earns its place particularly on the first flight inside an entrance. That stair takes tracked-in water for months of the year and is the single most predictable slip location in most buildings. It also suits any stairwell where a review, an insurer, or a facility standard has asked for a defined leading-edge treatment.

The compliance profile matters on public and institutional work. The round nose version carries FloorScore, GREENGUARD Gold and NSF/ANSI 332 Platinum, and contributes to LEED v4 and v4.1. It is made in the USA and meets both the Buy America and Buy American Acts, which is frequently the deciding factor on federally funded projects.

This is an interior product, and that is a manufacturer position rather than a caution. Only one rubber tread in the range is recommended for exterior use, and this is not it. Freeze-thaw cycling and UV exposure both attack a compound formulated for indoor service, so an outdoor flight needs a tread built for it.

It is also not a fix for a stair that has lost its shape. An insert addresses traction and visibility, not geometry. Steps that vary noticeably in depth, badly spalled treads and broken nosings all need attention before a covering goes over them, because a tread follows those problems rather than correcting them.

Three Things to Check Before You Spec It

First, check the gap between the step nose and the tread radius. Most current construction uses a metal pan filled with concrete at a 1/2 inch maximum nose radius, which fits without help. On worn metal, wood or existing flooring, a gap over 1/4 inch requires an epoxy nose filler, and a gap of 1/2 inch or more means the substrate needs preparing another way entirely.

Second, settle the insert type and colour before ordering. Grit and rubber inserts are different products and neither can be changed once the tread is molded. If an accessibility review is anywhere in the project, or the stairwell is part of an egress route, get the requirement in writing rather than choosing by default.

Third, plan for pattern alignment on wide stairs. Treads are made to be trimmed on both ends and on the depth, and the manufacturer recommends ordering the next size up where a wide stairwell needs the diamond pattern to line up across a butted joint. Dry fit before any adhesive goes down.

Why Mats Inc.

Grit-insert treads usually get specified after something has already happened, which means the decision gets made fast and often gets made wrong. We have been supplying commercial stair coverings since 1964, and the questions worth answering first are which flights actually present the risk, whether anyone is applying an accessibility or procurement standard to the job, and what shape the existing noses are in.

Frequently Asked Questions

How is an inlaid insert different from stick-on stair tape?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

The insert is set into the tread during manufacture rather than applied to a finished surface. There is no separate adhesive layer, no raised edge sitting proud of the rubber, and nothing for a mop head or a scrubber brush to catch and start lifting.

Stick-on tape fails predictably. An edge lifts, dirt gets underneath, cleaning accelerates it, and within a year you have curling strips that look worse than a bare tread and no longer do the job. An inlaid insert wears down with the tread around it instead, so it stays flush and stays functional for the life of the covering.

What does the coefficient of friction figure actually tell me?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

The round nose version measures 0.50 or better under ASTM D2047, using a James Machine with a leather foot under dry conditions. That is the number most specifications ask for, and it is worth knowing it is a dry-condition test rather than a wet one.

Read it as a documented baseline rather than a guarantee. The ADA standard asks that a floor surface be stable, firm and slip resistant without setting a numeric threshold, so the figure supports a specification rather than satisfying one outright. Site-applied finishes, polishes and sealers all change the walking surface, which is a good argument for keeping maintenance simple on a stair.

How does it fit an existing step, and when do I need a nose filler?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

Most current construction is a metal formed pan filled with concrete, at a nose radius of 1/2 inch maximum under ADA guidance. On those steps the round nose tread fits directly and no filler is needed, provided the tread is fitted tight to the substrate.

Older or worn substrates are different. Check the gap between the tread radius and the step edge: over 1/4 inch, an epoxy nose filler is required to close it. At 1/2 inch or more, the substrate itself needs preparing by other means before a tread goes on. A void under a nose flexes underfoot, works the adhesive loose, and eventually becomes the loose edge somebody catches. Filler is always acceptable to use even where it is not required.

Grit strip or rubber insert, and what colour?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

Grit gives an abrasive texture underfoot and comes in eight colours, from safety yellow and galley red through neutrals like pebble white, ocean gray, beige and teak brown, plus black as the quiet default and a glow strip option. Rubber inserts come ribbed or smooth in five colours and give a colour break without the rough band.

Choose the colour against the tread deliberately. Safety yellow on charcoal or black is the strongest contrast available and marks each step edge clearly from the top of a flight. Beige or ocean gray against a similar tread nearly disappears, which suits a lobby stair where the insert is there for footing rather than for marking. The combination to avoid is one that neither matches nor contrasts.

Can the treads still coordinate with the rest of the stairwell?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

Yes, and it is worth planning. The tread body comes in the full range of twenty-six colours, thirteen solids each with a marbleized version, so it can match risers, landing tile and anything else in the stairwell exactly as an untreated tread would. The insert then sits as a deliberate line on top of that.

Marbleized versions are the more forgiving choice on a working flight. Swirled tones break up the surface so scuffs and the sheen that develops along the main walking path fold into the pattern rather than standing out. A flat solid shows every mark until the next deep clean, which matters more on stairs than almost anywhere else in a building.

How do I work out what to order?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

Count the steps and measure the widest one. Round nose treads come in seven lengths from 36 to 72 inches; square nose runs to 108. Treads are made to be trimmed on both ends and on the depth, so order to the widest step and cut down from there rather than ordering to an average.

On a wide stairwell where the diamond pattern needs to line up across a butted joint, order the next size up and dry fit the whole flight before any adhesive goes down. Add a spare piece too, since colour runs vary between batches and a replacement bought a year later may sit visibly against its neighbours.

By Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO, Mats Inc.

A landing takes a kind of abuse the steps never see. People pivot on it, turn on it, set bags down on it, and drag carts across it. Every drop of water tracked up a flight gets deposited there. Cover the treads and leave the landing bare, and the landing becomes the worn spot — and the slick spot — at the exact point where people change direction.

What Diamond Design Rubber Tile Does Before a Landing Wears Out Ahead of the Stairs

Stair treads handle a single motion: a foot lands, presses forward, and lifts. A landing handles everything else. Traffic arrives from one direction and leaves in another, which means twisting loads on the surface rather than straight-line ones. That grinding motion is what polishes terrazzo, wears the finish off concrete, and drives grit into a floor.

Rubber landing tile puts a resilient, textured surface over that pivot point. The rubber absorbs the twist instead of transmitting it into the substrate, and the raised pattern gives shoes something to grip against while they are turning — which is exactly when a smooth wet floor stops working.

The other thing it does is finish the job. A renovated stairwell with new treads and an untouched landing looks unfinished from the flight above, and it cleans as two different surfaces. Tiling the landing means the whole stairwell maintains as one system.

Why a Diamond Pattern in Molded Rubber, and Why This Tile

The diamond pattern is a directional-traction answer to a multi-directional problem. Raised diamonds present edges on every axis, so a foot gets the same grip pivoting sideways as it does walking straight across. A linear rib pattern grips well in one direction and much less well across it, which is the wrong trade on a surface where nobody walks in a straight line.

The tile is 3/16" thick and factory cut to 27" x 27". Factory cutting matters more than it sounds — square, consistent tiles mean tight joints and fewer edges for dirt to work into. The pattern is a continuous field design, so it runs across the joints between tiles rather than resetting at each one, and a tiled landing reads as one surface instead of a grid.

That 3/16" thickness is chosen, not incidental. It matches the thickness of the diamond pattern rubber stair treads it is designed to pair with, so the tile and the tread meet flush at the top of the flight. A thickness mismatch there creates a lip at the busiest transition point in the whole stairwell.

The tile is also made to coordinate with those treads in color and design, so a landing and a flight can be specified as one visual package rather than as two products that happen to be in the same building.

Where It Belongs — and Where It Doesn't

Stair landings are the obvious application, and the one this tile is named for. It also works in lobbies, entrance vestibules, corridors and aisles, elevator cabs and elevator lobbies, ramps, and industrial floor areas — anywhere traffic concentrates, changes direction, or arrives wet. It sits alongside the rest of the interior stair and landing line and is usually specified with matching treads.

It is not a stair tread. There is no nose on a landing tile, so it cannot cover a step edge and should never be used on the steps themselves. The tread and the tile are two different products doing two different jobs on the same flight.

It is also not a loose-lay mat and not an interlocking tile. It is adhered to the substrate, permanently, which is what makes it hold up under cart wheels and pivoting traffic. If you need something removable, or something you can pull up seasonally, this is the wrong product category entirely.

Three Things to Check Before You Spec It

Tile work is won or lost in the layout, before anything is ordered. Three checks will keep the install clean and the cut edges where you want them.

First, measure the landing and plan where the cuts fall. At 27" square, the tile will not divide evenly into most landing dimensions, so there will be cut tiles somewhere. Decide in advance whether the partial tiles sit against the wall, at the stair edge, or split evenly on both sides. Landings are small enough that a badly placed cut row is immediately visible.

Second, check the substrate before ordering. The tile is adhered, so the floor underneath has to be flat, sound, dry, and free of old adhesive ridges. Rubber is resilient enough to conform to minor variation, which is a problem as much as a benefit — it will telegraph a high spot rather than bridge it. Adhesive selection also depends on the substrate, so tell us what you are bonding to.

Third, settle the pattern direction and the color pairing at the same time. Rubber tile carries a subtle marbleization that runs one way through the material, and tiles should be installed with that direction consistent across the landing. Decide it before the crew starts, and decide the tread pairing along with it.

Why Mats Inc.

Mats Inc. has supplied stair and landing coverings since 1964, and landings are the piece most often left off a stairwell order until the treads are already down. We will work the landing dimensions, the tile count, the cut layout, the tread pairing, and the adhesive with you in one pass, so the flight and the landing arrive together and go down together. Send us the measurements and we will do the layout math.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why a diamond pattern instead of ribs or discs?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

Because of how people move on a landing. Ribs are excellent when traffic runs perpendicular to them, which is why they work so well on stair treads — everybody crosses a step the same way. On a landing, nobody does. Traffic arrives from the flight, turns, and leaves in a different direction, often carrying something.

A raised diamond presents edges on every axis, so the grip is the same whichever way the foot is loaded. It also drains: the channels between the diamonds give tracked water somewhere to go instead of sitting as a film. Discs do a similar job with a different look, so the choice between them usually comes down to which pattern your treads use.

Is 3/16" enough for a heavy traffic landing?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

Yes, and this is the gauge specified for heavy traffic areas. Rubber does not fail on a landing the way a hard surface does. It deforms under load and recovers, so cart wheels and pivoting feet do not grind material away the way they abrade concrete or polish terrazzo.

There is a second reason 3/16" is the right number, and it has nothing to do with wear: it matches the thickness of the diamond pattern rubber stair treads. Where the top step meets the landing you get a flush transition instead of a lip. That transition is the single highest-traffic square foot in a stairwell, and a raised edge there is a trip point that will get reported.

Can I use this outside, or anywhere other than a stair landing?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

Away from stairs, absolutely. This tile is at home in lobbies, entrance vestibules, corridors, aisles, ramps, elevator cabs, and industrial floor areas. Anywhere traffic concentrates or changes direction is a reasonable application, and plenty of buildings use it as a general-purpose floor tile in high-wear zones rather than only on landings.

Exterior use is a different question and I would not want you to assume it. Outdoor installations bring freeze-thaw movement and water sitting under the tile, and the adhesive bond is what carries the whole system. Before you spec this on an exterior landing or an entry step, talk to us so we can confirm the right product and the right adhesive for that exposure.

How do I work out how many tiles I need?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

Each tile is 27" x 27", which covers just over five square feet. Measure your landing in inches, divide each dimension by 27, and round up on both — that gives you the tile count including the partial tiles you will cut. Do not calculate from square footage alone; it under-orders every time, because cut waste is real.

Then add a few extra tiles. Cuts go wrong, and landings often have a floor register, a door jamb, or a stringer detail that eats a tile you did not plan for. Having two or three spares in a closet also means a damaged tile years from now can be replaced from the same production run rather than a near-match. Send us the landing dimensions and we will run the count for you.

Will the tile match my stair treads, and does the direction matter when laying it?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

The tile is designed to coordinate with the diamond pattern rubber stair treads in both color and design, so the landing and the flight read as one surface rather than as two products that happen to share a stairwell. That coordination is the main reason to choose this pattern over another.

Direction does matter, and it is the detail installers most often miss. Rubber tile carries a subtle marbleization that runs one way through the material. Lay every tile with that direction consistent and the landing looks like a single poured surface. Rotate tiles ninety degrees to save cutting and you get a visible checkerboard under raking light — impossible to unsee once someone points it out, and it means pulling tiles up.

Can I tile the landing without redoing the stairs at the same time?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

You can, and sometimes it is the right call — a landing at the bottom of a flight often wears out well before the treads do, especially if it sits near an entrance where everything wet gets tracked in first. Replacing just that surface is a small, contained job.

The thing to think about is the transition. If your existing treads are a different thickness than 3/16", the tile will not sit flush against the top step and you will have a small step-up or step-down at the edge. Usually that is manageable, but it is worth measuring your current tread thickness before ordering rather than discovering it on install day. If you are planning to do the treads eventually anyway, doing both together removes the problem entirely.

Written by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing, Mats Inc.

What WaterPro does before a wet pool deck becomes a fall

A wet pool deck or locker-room floor looks harmless — until someone walks across it barefoot and the water under their feet does the deciding. It's easy to trust textured tile or a quick mop. The trouble is that water sits in a thin film on a flat surface, exactly where bare feet land, and tile that grips when dry can turn slick the moment it's wet.

WaterPro is built to take that film out of the equation. Its open-weave surface lets water drain straight through to the floor below, so the part you stand on stays above the puddle instead of in it. The molded grid gives bare feet and wet shoes real traction. That's the difference between a true non-slip pool mat and a mat that only feels safe when it's dry.

On a barefoot wet floor, a slip isn't a minor thing. The National Floor Safety Institute links wet, hard floors to a large share of slip-and-fall injuries, and pools, showers, and locker rooms keep those floors wet all day. A mat that drains the water away and holds grip underfoot is doing safety work every hour it's down.

Why an open-weave vinyl build, and why this one

WaterPro is made from soft, flexible vinyl shaped by injection molding into an open-weave grid. The soft vinyl is the part bare feet notice first — it's comfortable to stand and walk on, not hard and cold like tile. Just as important, the vinyl is blended with fungicidal compounds that resist athlete's foot fungus and mildew, which is exactly the problem damp locker rooms and shower floors tend to grow.

The open-weave pattern does double duty. Water and grit fall through the surface and collect below, so the top stays cleaner and drier underfoot, and there's nowhere for a slick film to pool. Because the mat is low-profile, it sits close to the floor — comfortable for bare feet and easy to walk on without a tripping lip at the edge.

The vinyl stays flexible, which makes it easy to live with: it has no bent memory, doesn't rattle underfoot, needs no pan beneath it, and lifts out for a quick hose-down or clean. It's also ADA compliant, can contribute toward LEED credits, and is made in the USA — details that matter when a mat has to satisfy a spec as well as a swimmer.

Where it belongs — and what it isn't

WaterPro earns its place anywhere bare feet meet a wet floor. That's the classic pool deck and pool surround, but also aquatic centers, spas, saunas, hot-tub surrounds, shower and changing areas, and locker rooms. It even suits sand-heavy spots like beach resorts, where the open weave lets sand drop through instead of grinding underfoot. Wherever water and people share the floor, the job is the same: drain it, grip it.

It helps to say what this mat is not. It's a walk-on surface mat, not a flotation device, and not the liner-protector sheet that goes underneath an above-ground pool. If you're after a mat to put under a pool or a float for the water, this isn't that product. WaterPro works on top of the deck, under your feet — on concrete, tile, or a finished pool surround.

How it goes down depends on the space. It can lie loose with a finished vinyl ramp edge, drop into a recessed area for a flush, seamless look, or sit in a surface-mounted frame where you want a defined border. The same mat suits a tucked-in shower entry or a wall-to-wall locker-room floor.

Three Things to Check Before You Spec It

WaterPro is forgiving to order, but three things decide whether it fits your space the first time.

First, pick your installation style. A loose-lay mat with a ramped edge is the simplest — it drops in and can move for cleaning. A recessed install sits flush for a seamless, trip-free finish where the floor is prepped for it. A surface-mounted frame gives you a clean, defined border on an existing floor. Match the method to how finished the space needs to look.

Second, measure the whole wet path, not just the obvious spot. The walk from the pool to the locker room, the full shower floor, the area around a hot tub — size the mat to cover where feet are actually wet, since a dry-foot gap is where the next slip happens. Because it cuts to size on site and custom sizes are unlimited, odd shapes aren't a problem.

Third, choose the color with the room in mind. WaterPro comes in blue, black, gray, and green, with custom colors available. Blue and green read fresh and aquatic around a pool; gray and black hide grit and read more neutral in a locker room or spa. The color is a chance to fit the mat to the space rather than fight it.

Why Mats Inc.

We've been matching mats to real floors since 1964, and barefoot wet areas are where a wrong choice gets noticed fastest — by feet, by inspectors, and by anyone who slips. We'll help you choose an install style, size WaterPro to your actual wet path, and pick a color that suits the room. It's part of our wider lineup of pool and wet-area matting, and every order is backed by our 1-year limited warranty.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's WaterPro made of, and how does it keep its grip when it's wet?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

It's made from soft, flexible vinyl that's injection-molded into an open-weave grid. Two things make it grip when wet. First, the open weave lets water drain straight through to the floor below, so you're standing on the mat instead of on a film of water. Second, the molded grid pattern gives bare feet and wet shoes real edges to hold onto. The vinyl is also blended with a fungicidal compound, so the same surface that grips also resists the athlete's foot fungus and mildew that damp floors tend to grow.

Will it hold up in a chlorinated, constantly wet pool area — and stay sanitary?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

That's the environment it's built for. The vinyl is made to live in constant moisture without breaking down, and because it's low-profile and loose-lay, you can lift it to hose it off and let the floor underneath dry — no trapped water, no pan to empty. The fungicidal compound works against the fungus and mildew that thrive in warm, wet, barefoot spaces, which is what keeps a locker room or shower from turning into a health problem. Routine cleaning is quick: rinse it, and it's ready.

Can I get it cut to fit my exact pool deck or shower?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

Yes — that's one of its strengths. WaterPro cuts to width and length right on site, so it can follow the real shape of your deck, wrap around a corner, or fit a narrow shower entry without forcing your space to match a stock size. Custom sizes are unlimited, so whether you need a small mat at a shower threshold or a wall-to-wall run across a locker room, it can be made to the footprint you actually have.

Where does WaterPro work besides right at the pool?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, VP of Marketing

Plenty of places beyond the pool's edge. It's at home in aquatic centers, spas and saunas, hot-tub surrounds, shower and changing areas, and locker rooms — anywhere people are barefoot and the floor stays wet. It even suits sand-prone spots like beach resorts, where the open weave lets sand fall through instead of grinding underfoot. If a space combines water, bare feet, and foot traffic, it's a candidate.

What colors does it come in, and which works best around a pool?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, VP of Marketing

It comes in four standard colors — blue, black, gray, and green — and you can order custom colors on top of that. Around a pool, blue and green feel natural and fresh, picking up the water and the outdoor setting. In a locker room, spa, or shower, gray and black read more neutral and do a better job hiding the grit and debris these floors collect between cleanings. The color isn't just looks; it's a way to make the mat feel like it belongs in the room.

Can I match it to my facility's look or get a custom color?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, VP of Marketing

Yes. Beyond the four standard colors, custom colors are available, so you can bring the mat closer to a facility's palette instead of settling for whatever's on the shelf. Combined with unlimited custom sizing, that means a resort, club, or aquatic center can specify a mat that fits both the space and the look it's going for. If you have a specific color or finish in mind, send it over and we'll tell you what's possible.

Written by Jinna Hopson, VP of Marketing, Mats Inc.

Custom Drink Mats turn a bar or service counter into branded space while doing the everyday work of a good bar mat — protecting the countertop and keeping glassware from sliding. Your logo, image, or message is printed in full color into the mat surface, so the branding is part of a working mat rather than a sticker on top of it. They're among our most customizable pieces in the full logo-mats range, sized to your counter.

Underneath the print, it's built for a wet counter. The mat is nitrile rubber at 3/16 inch thick over a cushion backing, with the artwork carried on a polymetric film bonded to the rubber surface. Nitrile shrugs off the spills, citrus, and constant wipe-downs a bar throws at it, and the cushioned body gives it some give on a hard counter while the rubber face grips glassware.

The surface prints in full color, and up to four PMS colors can be matched per design for brand accuracy, with a one-time setup fee per color. One honest caveat on color: the mat is finished under a hot press that bonds the rubber and cushion, and the heat tends to lighten the print slightly, so a PMS match comes close but isn't exact. Bold, clean artwork reproduces best — we proof every design before it runs.

It's made for countertop point-of-purchase use — bars, restaurants and cafés, tasting rooms, and retail counters where a branded surface meets a working one. A few artwork rules keep the result clean: text reads best at 1/2 inch or taller, lines at 1/16 inch or thicker, and white isn't usable as a background or in the imprint because it discolors in service (there are light alternatives that hold up). Replace it when the print wears from heavy daily use.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I print my logo in our exact brand colors?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

You can get close, and we'll tell you honestly how close. The surface prints in full color, and we can match up to four PMS colors per design for brand accuracy, with a one-time setup fee of $270.38 per PMS color. The honest part: the mat is finished under a hot press, and that heat tends to lighten the print a few shades, so an exact PMS match isn't guaranteed — we get near it. Send us your brand colors and artwork and we'll build a proof so you can see the match before anything runs.

Are there artwork rules I should know before sending a design?

Answered by Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing

A few, and they're all about keeping the print clean. Keep text at least 1/2 inch tall and lines at least 1/16 inch thick; very thin or special fonts may need to be sized up, which we handle case by case. Don't use white as a background or in the imprint — it discolors through manufacturing — but there are light tones that hold up in its place. And if you're working in CorelDraw, avoid PowerClips in the file. Send the art over and we'll flag anything that needs adjusting.

What's it made of, and how long does it last?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

It's nitrile rubber at 3/16 inch thick over a cushion backing, with the printed artwork carried on a polymetric film bonded to the surface. Nitrile holds up well to the spills, citrus, and constant wipe-downs a bar surface sees, and the cushion gives it some give on a hard counter. Lifespan comes down to how hard it's worked and how it's cleaned; on a busy bar, plan to replace it when the print starts to wear in the heavy-use zone rather than waiting for the rubber to give out.

Will it protect the counter and keep glasses from sliding?

Answered by Dustin Thompson, Owner & CEO

That's the working half of the job. The cushioned rubber body shields the countertop from glassware, bottles, and the constant set-down-and-slide of a service area, and the non-slip rubber face grips so glasses and bottles stay put instead of skating across a wet counter. It's built specifically for countertop protection and a slip-resistant surface for glassware, so it earns its place as a working bar mat first, with the branding on top of that.

By Jinna Hopson, Vice President of Marketing, Mats Inc.